The shorts and skirts, as well as the breezy silk tops and baggy pants, felt right under the day’s scorching sun, as models walked on a white platform in the courtyard of the storied institution to a live performance of D4vd. Piccioli has been perfecting layering and the juxtaposition of different colors - azure and burgundy one example - and the palette in the collection was mouthwatering. Several looks featured oversize, stylized poppy flowers and they were spot on - and genderless to boot. The double cotton jacket and shorts combo in cream with several embroidered flowers in the same shade was simply beautiful. Case in point, an embroidered flower can replace a tie or, placed on a buttonhole, is reminiscent of a gentleman’s etiquette of yore. The designer underscored that it’s not necessary to run away from pre-defined rules, and that they can actually be overturned even in an imperceptible way. “The collection is anchored in the traditional rules of tailoring, once a symbol of power and success, but rendered contemporary, with shorter pants or skirts, as an expression of individuality,” said Piccioli, who, to be fair, has long been questioning conventions with his designs, shifting the brand from a concept of lifestyle to that of a community. Valentino Mens Spring 2024 Giovanni Giannoni/WWD Any shade of pink is no longer a taboo, nor is a skirt worn under a perfectly tailored blazer. Piccioli revisited the traditional menswear codes, wishing “to avoid any uproar,” and in this vein, the Valentino man has no qualms about wearing a flowing silk coat embellished with a floral pattern, or an emerald green jacket embroidered with flowers and sequins. Society relegates men in boxes because it’s easier, but the real power is to be free, even showing some fragility while being resilient.” “It should not follow the rules of society or the perfection associated with success. “It’s very important to me to redefine the masculine identity,” said Piccioli after the show, held in the courtyard of Milan’s Statale University. The aim of Valentino’s creative director is to leave “traditional machismo” behind, but at the same time, he makes a point of staying away from any “aesthetic dictatorship.” Chanel Haute Couture Fall Winter 2008/2009 Full Show Exclusive 69,182 views 766 Dislike Share Save FF Channel 1.96M subscribers Chanel Haute Couture Fall Winter 2008/2009 by. Men in skirts are not a provocation, according to Pierpaolo Piccioli - they telegraph freedom.
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